Snake Park

Leaving Dar es Salaam at an early 5am we started the biggest drive of the trip. The roads were actually pretty good quality but just many many km’s to cover. Most of us slept through the morning, then the games of pictionary and travel scrabble broke out to kill the hours. We quickly established who had the best drawing skills in the group, and whose were the worst (no names). The highlight along the way was spotting Mt Kilimanjaro along the way above a field of sunflowers. Nothing but a peak of snow in the distance, which was awesome considering we are in Africa.

Many many many hours later we drove through Arusha then out to the Snake Park, a well known campsite where every overland truck stops before the Serengeti. For so much traffic, you would think the toilet blocks would be a bit better, but then who can complain if you are travelling around in a giant truck on a budget.

All dinner duties were off as a Braai was provided for us and then into the bar. A darts drinking game began and 3 quick games later everyone was nicely drunk and well on their way into the night. The bar stayed open an extra 1 1/2 hours for us, then we sat elsewhere listening to Big Boy’s stories while nodding off and rejoining them part way through. Since we had bar tabs a lot of damage was done to the wallet that night, with 95 shots shared between about 8-9 of us. It all goes to building an orphanage we are told…..

The morning saw many hangovers, with an especially bad one for me. We wandered the free activities at the campsite, namely a Snake Park with all the deadliest snakes in Africa. They are behind glass but still watch you and move towards you if you stare a little too much. They are terrifying.

The other was the Maasi museum, which contains exhibits about the local tribespeople of the area. It was filled with interesting diorama’s of village and cultural life. I was expecting simple photos and maybe a caption. I actually did sneak out for a breather as they started talking about male circumcision and blood-letting of cows for health benefits. Nice little set-up though.

Then we waited around the camp for the Serengeti excursion and decided to change from the 1 to a 2 night excursion, only a few hours before. This bumped the numbers up to 9 which meant 2 vehicles should be sent out but the company doing it was too cheap to do so (due to extra park fees, etc) so we took a vote and reluctantly left Kat behind at camp as we drove off with Laurence our guide towards the Ngorongoro national park.

Exotic Zanzibar

Four days out on the infamous spice island. What a treat from camping life. We forfieted a day in Zambia to spend an extra one on the beach. Well worth it. Our first stop was a hostel in Stone Town – the original city on the island, made of – you guessed it – stone, and with a strong arabic influence. Lots of narrow alleys, shops, markets and seafood. Very nice.

We were whisked away on a Spice Tour starting around town learning about the slave trade and seeing the few sights then out to a spice plantation for a walk. I know it doesn’t sound too exciting but it was really cool. Every 10 meters we stopped to pick or cut plants and smell the aromas – fresh cinnamon bark, vanilla, cardamon, cloves etc. We also discovered lots of the tropical fruits with pineapples growing all around, mango trees, paw paw, and watching guys climb massive coconut trees with only a rope tied between their legs. Fresh coconut is the best as well. It all ended with a feast of fruit and us receiving new attire made from palm leaves – woven ties, crowns and necklaces. We were pimped up and ready for town.

We spent the night at a few bars, a traditional restaurant with a definite middle east feel of hanging lanterns, rugs and cushions. We all were pretty achy after an hour or two on the floor waiting continually for our waitress to return with the dessert menu we asked for but she never came. We paid and left to find a sisha bar to finish of the night with a few beers.

The next morning me, Amber and Kristen headed out to Prision Island. About a 30 minute boat ride away to where slaves used to be in quaratine for 14 days before heading to the mainland. The process didn’t really work as everyone still got sick. Our purpose here was to see the giant tortises in a scantuary. There were dozens of them around, and we were given bundles of celery to feed them with. A few just didn’t bother moving but others were keen. Crooning their necks around, getting onto their tiptoes to walk and making a slow motion movement towards us. All their motions are nice and slow, but they were loving the celery. We spent ages there, it was cool. Each of them has a personallity on their face, looking like a 90 year old grandmother with no teeth

From here we transferred to the north to spend a few days on the beach. We all piled into our basic accomodations and spent the next two days swimming in the beautiful turquoise waters, drinking beers and cocktails, eating nice seafood (Zanzibar Pole Pole Coconut Octopus was the best) and getting some sun. Was cool just to hang out with everyone.

The highlight though was going snorkelling. We went out on the smallest boat possible for 2 hours cruise, then got a reef just off a private island. Donned the snorkels and jumped into the awesome warm water. Instantly we were immersed with fish all around and perfect clarity of everything. A few of the others were good snorkellers so showed us how to dive down and equalise. Made the experience so so much better as rather than watching the fish, you are down there with them. Scuba diving must be an awesome next step. After a good hour or so in the water, we went back to a nearby beach for lunch of steamed kingfish, chapati and fruit. Delicious.

We ended our days here going for a sunset cruise on a traditional dhow – fishing boat. We just relaxed in the sun, rested, drank beers and chatted watching the sunset and other boats out around the place. Very cool. Zanzibar is a place I would love to return to, to explore the island some more and swim in the nicest seas ever another time.

Love Potion #9

During the second half of our time on Lake Malawi, we were at another campsite with heaps of the overland trucks around. Having bar tabs quickly turned it into a big night out which for some reason ended with everyone having arm wrestling constests representing their countries.

The next day to relieve the hangovers, a few of us went on a village walk. It wasn’t as detailed and varied as the previous one, but we ended up at the witchdoctors house. After waiting a while, we were escorted into a little house, and a small gathering formed with a guy playing a bongo drum in the corner. The witchdoctor came out and the dancing began. Due to the darkened room it did give a strange creepy vibe but only started getting weird when they handed him burning embered sticks and he began biting off the ends and chewing the embers. Good times.

Once the show was over and a connection was made between us, we had a reading done of our futures. I didn’t believe it too much, as it’s all for fun. Me and Amber went together and he stated obvious things about our relationship, mentioned our next job will be the right one and if we work hard, we will go far. The most interesting bit was that in 3 years we will apparaently have our first child. It will be girl, boy then girl. Which means 3 in total, and is slightly terrifying. I hope he is wrong.

One of the girls bought some anti-hangover potion to tryout later that evening. Apparently he does cure many illnesses, but not HIV/Aids. Quite realistic. He did offer various love potions to create a relationship or strengthen one. And yes, they were called Love Potion #7 and #9. Just like the song (which I’m sure was the inspiration in the first place).

In our final days here, we headed down to the beach to re-meet some boys selling things. One of them noticed I had one more braclet then before and started scorning me – “You promised you would buy from me, this is a big problem for you”. Amber quickly turned before I could say anything and told him not to talk to people in that way as his friend quickly agreed it was not my problem but his friends. Too funnny.

From here we moved into Tanzania, for a night of hot hot showers and Amarula hot chocolates. Amarula is like an African verision of Bailey’s, but way tastier. Sorry to any Irish readers, but its a fact…

We ended up in Dar es Salam for a quiet night of meeting one new person on our tour, then awoke early to catch the ferry to the magical spice island of Zanzibar

Hello Mzungu!! (White People)

After two long long days on the truck driving through Zambia, (a slightly more posh country than the others we have seen) we pulled up at Lake Malawi to chill out for a few days. The lake is massive and so so blue (when it’s sunny). Over the few days we got to know the new people through 2 birthday parties at night and then sitting around hungover the next few days.

We learned that when it rains our tent will leak through the old torn seams. Amber’s side was okay, but I kept waking to little puddles around my pillow – mop it up with my towel, and repeat every few hours. We hung everything out to drip dry the next day and embarked on a village walk. We wandered to the local village with a guide, visiting so many people in any sort of power – nurses, ministers and headmasters who all have a little guestbook for us to sign, and the usual conversations of where we are from etc. The Headmaster had a big map in his office but struggled to pick out any of our countries. A teacher had to help fill him in. I think the map is really just for show. The most fun bit was visiting a small school for deaf children who swarmed around us wanting photos taken, and laughing when shown each one. While I was taking pics, Amber was spelling names in sign language which they loved.  We have the school address and will be sending them all the photos to put up in the classroom.

We filled the remaining time haggling at the local markets, which consisted of about 6 stalls. Was so so relaxed and friendly after Vic Falls. We got some cool stuff and even struck a business deal with one of the guys who wants us to sell his paintings in Canada. We took his address and told him we would check out the situation/market and be in touch if we wanted to consider the idea.

After some good days here we moved further up the lakeside, driving through lush green scenery to arrive at a busy campsite with so many overland trucks and had a chuckle as we watched groups of people cooking their own food. So glad we have Malinga on board as our chef